After crossing the Andes and 200 photo's later (seriously!!) we arrived at our hostel in Mendoza at 1am. Unfortunately they had made a bit of a mistake with the room arrangements so it meant that Alana and I were in different dorms, something they would rectify in the morning.
We were up early to run some chores (change some money, laundry etc) before having a long day of hard drinking.....I mean, appreciating the fine bouquets and full bodied taste of the Marbeck grape!
We travelled by bus to a small town just outside Mendoza called Maipu and hired a couple of bikes to tour the vineyards. We experimented with a tandem but quickly decided that if we didnt have the co-ordination to control it sober, then after a couple of vino tintos we defintely wouldnt!
The tour was about 10kms long with several vineyards offering tours and a glass of wine for free and others that charged a small fee. Most of the people doing the tours didnt seem interested in paying, however Alana and I stopped at quite a few of the ones that charged and were lucky enough to sometimes have the place to ourselves.....and it wasnt exactly expensive – most places were charging around NZ$6 for a tour and 3 tasters of wine....a taster actually being a large glass!!
Guzzle! Guzzle!
Its a hard life!!
Not wobbling at all......promise!!
After a day of vineyards and many tastings, a bottle of wine at lunch and the 32C heat, it was safe to say we were slightly worse for wear. We tottered back to our hostel in search of a cool shower, some food and a snooze in our slightly drunken haze – unfortunately when we got back we discovered that not only were we not in the same dorm again, new people were now in our beds! Brilliant! It took the hostel about 3 hours to sort something out for us during which time the heavy red wine fuelled hangover was starting to kick in and we were getting irritable! Eventually after much messing around we managed to get beds (in seperate rooms), showered and fed. We didnt get much sleep however as that night there was a massive impromptu party – Alana's room was right next to the bar and so couldnt sleep for music and people coming in and out of her room. She even had some drunken Aussie jump into bed with her at one point and ask to spoon!!
The following morning we packed up and checked out ready for our next bus that evening. We spent the day walking around Mendoza and visiting the large local park. We also found a great 'Menu del Dia' deal where we got a starter, main and dessert for less than NZ$10! We weren't expecting great things from the main but it was great. A massive piece of steak, salad and potato.
Leaving Mendoza to get to Cordoba (Argentinas next largest city after Buenos Aires) didnt exactly go according to plan. Our bus was over an hour late, during which time we were teased with 3 nice looking, large seated buses arriving and departing. We eventualy got on our older, slightly tired looking bus and headed off to our destination.
It was about 9am when I awoke to find we had stopped, due to breakingdown! We were meant to have arrived in Cordoba at 7am but we were now stuck over 100kms away with the choice of either waiting for the bus to be fixed (they had no idea when the mechanic would arrive) or paying for another bus to get to Cordoba (the bus company were not willing to pay). We paid for another bus.
In Cordoba we had a relaxed day, caught up on some sleep and got nice bottle of wine.
The following day we visited Argentinas oldest church, most prestigious school (which only allowed girls to attend in 2001!) and walked along the river front.
Jesuit Church Museum Courtyard
Iglesia Catedral
Along the river (currently a stream) front.
We also found a bakery that sold dulche de leche meringues. Even Alana couldnt handle this much sugar in one sitting!!
An optimistic smile in the beginning...
A promising start...
Its GOOD!!
So.....much....sugar....
OK. I'm done!
On Sunday we finally arrived in Buenos Aires and checked into what is probably the nicest hostel of the trip – we were 8 hours early for actually being able to go to the room but they allowed us to have some breakfast and then told us there was a chill out room downstairs and some communal showers.
After a little snooze downstairs and freshening up we walked down to San Telmo markets. The market is held every Sunday and is over 2kms long. There is all sorts of tat and antiques for sale and as you can imagine Alana and I made a couple of 'small' purchases, the highlight of which being my new stylish cowboy hat!!!
Indiana Jones eat your heart out!!
After the markets we went for a nice steak dinner.....although we were the only ones in the restaurant!! Argentinians dont eat until 10pm or later, something we weren't quite used to yet!!
After the best nights sleep we have had in sometime in the nicest hostel we have been to so far we headed off to the Recoleta, the wealthy neighbourhood of BA to visit the cemetery. Gruesome you may think, but the tombs here are pretty spectacular. It also houses Evitas final resting place, which is rather simplistic compared to the surrounding extravagance.
Evita's final resting place.
A few other graves and details on them...
Of course some graves were better cared for than others!
We also discovered what was to become part of our daily routine for the rest of the time we were in Argentina......Freddos! Freddos is an ice-cream parlour with some of the best ice-creams we have ever had. You could get ¼kg for about NZ$6 of 3 different flavours – a treat certainly worth having!!
Other BA highlights were going to see La Bomba Del Tiempo – a drum group. Below is a video stolen from YouTube - ours weren't very good.
The colourful neighbourhood of Caminito in La Boca – famous for its Tango and coloured, corragated iron clad houses.
Colourful buildings.
Spot the difference.
A little more colour.
A really good graffiti tour. Our tour guide was brilliant. She had been doing the tour for over 7 months but was as enthused on our tour as if it had been her first – highly recommended if you are ever in BA (www.graffitimundo.com)
We learnt all about the artists and their passions and influences behind their work, we also visited some of their galleries.
Graffiti is widely tolerated in Argentina due to a history of using graffiti to express political propoganda. Many people will allow or even invite artisits to use their property to paint their artwork. One upside of having street art on your wall is that often taggers will respect the artwork and leave your wall alone. There are some amazing pieces all around town, a few of which are shown below.
Some of you may recognise this one....the artist sold the rights to the Ramones!
We also went to a Tango class which started off fun but there were too many people there to try and dance properly without banging into other couples. Plus, Alana and I were beginners to say the least.
We also did a bit of shopping in BA. There are some big malls with a lot of designer stores for prices cheaper than home (we didnt buy from) and boutique stores around San Telmo with a lot of cool clothes, jewellery and gifts.
After 5 days in Buenos Aires we headed an hour south to La Plata to visit and stay with a friend I had made while working in a bar in New Zealand – Martin.
He and his family were very hospitable and welcoming to the two tired, sweaty and dishevelled travellers that turned up at their door! After a couple of beers, a quick shower and a bit of a catch up we were treated to a traditional Argentine 'asado' (BBQ), with beef, pork, chorizo sausages and plenty of sides. It was safe to say that this was probably the largest meal we had eaten in sometime and extremely enjoyable.
We hadnt eaten until 10:30pm, as in keeping with Argentine tradition so it was late before we left to go out and meet Martins friends for a quiet drink in their local pub. We went out for quite literally a couple of pints but still did not get home until 3:30am!
The following day after lunch with the family Martin took us to the La Plata cathedral which offered views out over the grid system designed city.
La Plata
After a cheeky ice cream we headed back into BA to go and watch a football game - San Lorenzo v Racing at San Lorenzo stadium.
Although the teams were not the best to watch there were 3 goals (2-1 to Racing) and the fans were enthused and the atmosphere was awesome.
Football over, Martin drove us back to La Plata and we went for 'Pizza in a cone' for dinner – which was as the name says, pizza....in a cone!!
Like it says on the tin!
Another quick shower and some time chilling out, we started drinking while we waited for Martins friends to come and meet us. We then went BACK to BA again for a night out at 'Cro Bar'. This was a bar/club which was very cool, the music was not entirely to our taste but after a couple of inhibition removing tequilas we were pretty into it!!
The La Plata crew out in BA!
We were up after only a couple of hours sleep (and managing to sleep through our alarm), said goodbye and thank you to the family, Martin was again driving us back to BA so we could get to the bus station in time to catch our bus to Iguazu Falls.
We had had a great time in BA and with Martin. Argentina and especially Buenos Aires is up there with our top picks so far!
Iguazu Falls, probably one of South Americas most famous landmarks crossing the borders of both Argentina and Brazil were pretty impressive, however we weren't reduced to giggling messes as the guidebook suggested we might be! After a long night on the bus we ventured to the Argentinian side as soon as possible. We walked most of the many trails, getting soaked on a couple and saving the best for last – Garganta del Diablo (Devils Throat).
LOOK! Waterfalls!
Enjoying the view.
Short Round: “What is Sankara?” Indiana Jones: “Fortune and glory, kid. Fortune and glory.” (Temple Of Doom)
