Machu Picchu

Our apologies for the break in updates, the internet connection in Bolivia was too slow to even try updating, plus we were busy with all sorts of adventures that you will read about shortly.

A brief overview of the BEST coldest, wettest most miserable days of our lives!

We had to get to Cusco a couple of days in advance for our trek to acclimnatise to the altitude so we would not get sick on the trek. We spènt this time looking around Cusco which itself is a beautiful city and buying some souveniers........Alana purchased a new jumper that was so big and woolly it also meant we had to purchase a new bag to keep it in!!

A view from the main square.

Another view from around town

The famous 12 sided stone......go on, count them up!

The Trek

Day One.

We started pretty early at about 5:20am. As any of you that know Alana and I we weren´t the most sociable of people on the trek at this hour! We continued on a bus to a small town and had breakfast, bought some sweets (Snickers and Skittles which would later become lifesavers!!) and a walking stick. This was the single most important and best purchase I have EVER made!
Once breakfast was over and everyone had introduced themselves we continued to the beginning of the trek.
It was an easy trek on the first day with plenty of stops so the guides could gauge everyones fitness. I managed to keep up a relatively good pace even though I was carrying both Alana's and my stuff and 5 litres of water giving the backpack a combined weight of about 20kg's (2 backpack Norton has nothing on me!!).
Even though it was an easy walk we soon learned the difference between gringo flat (actually flat) and Inca flat (steady inclines).......we soon learned to hate Inca flat!!

Our group at the beginning of the trail

She had almost had enough!!

One of the Inca sites on day one

Day Two (The challenge day)

After the good weather of yesterday we awoke o what would become a common occurrence.....rain, well actually a misty fog with intermittent rain. This was actually quite welcome because within 10 minutes we were sweating horrendously as we munched on our coca leaves (taste not recommended!!) and began to climb 1200metres up to 4200metres above sea level. The beginning of the day wasn't too bad but then we hit 'Dead Womans Pass'. This was a killer! We trudged slowly but surely up these steps refuelling with Skittles that were immediately burnt off.....all the while I was STILL carrying the backpack which I was rapidly becoming to loath!

The little engine that could!

At the top (4200m). The smiles were Skittle fueled....we were buggered!!

Unfortunately as it had been raining (as visible from the photo above) after all our hardwork there was no rewarding view at the top of the pass, our reward came in the form of now being able to go downhill to our camp. This however was probably worse on the legs than going up, but nothing was going to stop us now we had the end in our sights! I couldn't wait to get this bag off me, have a cup of tea and possibly change into some dry clothes (rather than the current ones that were drenched not only with rain but also sweat!).

Our camp on day two. It brightened up as soon as we arrived!

Day Three

We were awoken early again by our guide and our 'tent service' (basically being woken up and offered a tea, coffee, hot chocolate or coca tea at the door of our tent – something I could get used to Alana!!) and set about getting ready for what was meant to be the most beautiful day.

After yet another amazing breakfast we set off on what was to be a far easier day then yesterday. We only had two small passes to cover and a bit of 'Inca flat' before we set about our descent on a staircase that is affectionately known as the 'Gringo Killer'!

Unfortunately after a bright and hopeful start it began to rain again and the clouds and mist set in meaning we were unable to view any of the spectacular scenery that is common on this day of the trek. It did however make us view the beauty that was immediately around us. There were many flowers and plants flanking the trail along with the mountain itself. The others on the trek were of course treated to yet another day of Dan and Alana beauty so they were happy at least!

After our lunch stop we had to pass through the Inca caves where they had carved their route through the rocks to continue their route to Machu Picchu. These were pretty cool although slightly slippy in the wet. We also visited an Incan fortress which was also impressive. They had good planning when it came to where the wanted to place important buildings. Often they are in a position to survey surrounding landscape for miles and in some instances are almost impenetrable.

Eventually we hit the Gringo Killer, which thankfully turned out to be a little easier than expected. Most of our group made such good time that we decided to take the longer route to the camp and visit another Incan site.

When we arrived at the final campsite we were able to have a hot shower (we didnt bother) and have a cold beer (we did bother!!) before having an early night ready for our extremely early start the following day.

Day Four.

As there are many tourists and tour groups along the trail it is important to be up early enough to be one of the first groups to make it to Machu Picchu and hopefully get some good pictures without too many other people in the background.

We started at 3:30am. Yes. Thats right. 3:30am!! In the rain. We quickly made our way to the gate ready to start day four of the trail and were lucky enough to be the third group to arrive meaning we were able to shelter from the rain while all the other groups stood out in it while we waited for the gate to open at 5:30am.

Due to the amount of rain, the gate was late opening as an official had to run along the trail and ensure there had been no landslides during the night. The trail had been closed for the two days previously due to this and the tours had had to descend down the hill and follow the train tracks around to the local town and then bus to Machu Picchu adding an extra two hours to their time and obviously a making it a disappointing way to end the trail.

As soon as the gates opened and we were able to go we were off to a flying start. The weight in the backpack giving me extra momentum, sometimes scarily so. I was doing well and not far behind Alana and the others at the front of our group, overtaking the other tours in front of us and making good time until I hit the climb to the Sun Gate. It was only about 50 steps but they were incredibly steep......I was almost on my hands and knees crawling up them!

The amazing view from the Sun Gate!

The view from this point of the trail is again supposed to be stunning but due to the rain (it was pouring down by now) we were unable to see anything. Before I had time to catch my breath Alana informed me we were off again and we continued our sprint to Machu Picchu.

When we arrived, although soaking wet and completely knackered the view was well worth it and we were exrtremely glad we had decided to go on the trek rather than get the bus. Alana and '1 incredibly heavy backpack Norton' had made it!!

After waiting for the rest of our group to arrive we were taken on a tour of the site. Im not going to lie, it was miserable. Although the tour was really good we were all tired, cold and completely soaked. Even our waterproof shoes were now squelching as we walked around.

After the tour was complete we spent about another 2 hours walking around on our own, although we didnt climb Wayna Picchu (the mountain in the background) as the clouds kept coming in and making visibility almost impossible.

We bused down the hill to the local town (Aguas Caliente) and headed to the hot springs to warm up for a couple of hours, before heading back to Cusco on the train and bus, eventually arriving at 2:30am after an extremely long but most satisfying day.

You may be wondering why the trail to Machu Picchu is so long and hard, or maybe you're not but I'm going to tell you anyway.

Only royalty and important Incan figures were allowed to follow the trail we took. They believed that the higher they climbed the closer they were to their gods and therefore the more divine they could become. Commoners that visited Machu Picchu would climb afar quicker and easier path to the summit.

Although, the site is quite large the main inhabitors were religious figures and Incan astrologers. They experimented a lot with growing different crops at altitudes they were normally unable to grow at (usually coca) and studied the stars intently.

As you may have noted above (I believe I mention it once or twice) I was carrying a heavy backpack throughout the trek which certainly took its toll, however there have been many other people carrying far bigger loads along this trail that deserve a mention.

Firstly were the Incan slaves who would have carried the Incan leaders on thrones along this path when they deemed it necessary to visit Machu Picchu, which must have been overwhelming. The second group of people were our (and other groups) porters who would literally run along the trail carrying twice the weight I was and set up our camp and make our meals. They are incredibly fit and worked tirelessly for us, always with a smile and always with a 'Hola' as they passed!

Our chef Eddy with the cake he had made for our last night. The food was amazing throughout the trip!